Ten years ago, most people outside Scotland hadn’t heard of the North Coast 500 (NC500). It’s a narrow and bumpy road that winds around the wild northern edge of the country. But thanks to a catchy name, a royal push, and Instagram, everything changed.
The NC500 was created to bring life to a quiet part of Scotland. It worked — and then some. What started as a small tourism idea turned into something much bigger. The whole world noticed. Tourists started pouring in. Soon, the NC500 became an example of what happens when too many people visit a place too fast.
A Royal Idea That Took Off
The idea didn’t come from a big company. It came from a charity called the North Highland Initiative, started with help from then-Prince Charles. They saw beauty in the quiet roads and wild views of the Highlands. They gave it a name — the NC500 — and started calling it Scotland’s version of Route 66.
It wasn’t just a name. It changed the way people saw the area. And it worked even better than expected.
From Childhood Memories to Instagram Hotspot

These roads used to be linked to childhood trips — getting car sick, driving past endless empty land, and eating basic meals like frozen peas and scampi. No one thought this road would one day attract travelers from around the world.
But then social media took over. Instagram filled up with pictures of rocky coastlines, starry skies, and lonely lighthouses. Travel bloggers, influencers, and road-trippers rushed in, chasing the idea of untouched beauty.
And that’s when the trouble started.
Too Many Tourists, Not Enough Space
At first, the change felt good. Local businesses got busier. B&Bs had more guests. The Highlands felt lively again. But the roads stayed the same — narrow and fragile. And there weren’t enough services to handle the crowds.
Campervans blocked roads. People turned fields into parking spots. Barbecues burned parts of nature reserves. And with not enough toilets, some tourists left behind messes, which annoyed locals.
Fodor’s Travel even put the NC500 on its 2025 “No List,” saying it was hurting the land and upsetting the people who live there.
Locals Feel the Pressure

Not everyone welcomed the flood of visitors. Richard and Jane Alcorn run the Aurora B&B near Thurso. They see both sides. Tourists bring money and excitement. But they also bring noise, trash, and campervans that block the view.
“It started with good intentions,” But now people treat it like a free holiday. They park in front of your house and get angry when you ask them to move.”
said Richard
The change is clear. What was supposed to help small businesses sometimes skips them altogether.
A Billionaire in the Picture
There’s another issue too: who’s in charge? Since 2018, a Danish billionaire named Anders Holch Povlsen has owned North Coast 500 Ltd. He’s the biggest landowner in Scotland. Not everyone is happy about that, especially as locals start to feel pushed aside.
Soon, angry posts began showing up on Facebook. Locals shared photos of badly-behaved tourists. The shine around the NC500 started to wear off.
Is It All Bad?
Journalist Angus MacKinnon found that it’s not all doom and gloom.
He returned to his childhood roots and drove the NC500, expecting chaos. Instead, he found a mix of good and bad — and some surprisingly warm moments.
He passed through towns like Dingwall that had seen better times. Maybe too many tourists isn’t the worst thing for places like this, he thought.
During the first part of his trip, everything felt calm. No traffic jams. No noisy crowds. Just quiet roads and beautiful views.
The Good Hidden in the Headlines
At the Old School restaurant in Loch Inchard, MacKinnon met Lisa MacLeod. Her B&B has done well thanks to the NC500, but she’s honest about the downsides.
“Yes, there are problems.” “But people also get to see how amazing this place is. That matters.”
Lisa MacLeod
She also pointed out that tourism alone won’t fix everything. Many young people still leave to work offshore or on fish farms. Tourism helps, but it’s not enough on its own.
The Crofter’s Kitchen Dream

One bright spot?
A dish of halibut — and a dream come true.
In Scourie, Grant and Heather Mercer run Crofter’s Kitchen. It started as a food truck and is now a local favorite. With fresh fish, homegrown veggies, and stunning views, they’ve built something special.
Their grilled halibut with wild garlic orzo is unforgettable — and tourism made it possible.
Now they’re planning to open a small indoor dining space using a shipping container. They got support from a government grant to help make it happen.
More Than Just Food
Their project isn’t only about meals. It’s about supporting the community. Every fish helps a local fisherman. Every homegrown veggie cuts down on imports. In a place often forgotten, this tiny kitchen is helping tell a new story — one full of pride and local flavor.
For MacKinnon, that dinner brought back memories. His late partner used to joke about boring Scottish meals. He knew she would have loved this one.
The Road Still Has Magic
As the road curved south toward the Assynt mountains, the landscape looked like a movie. Yellow gorse flowers. Sunlight on the hills. It was Scotland at its most beautiful.
The NC500 was meant to highlight these views. And along the way, it also gave a boost to small towns nearby — places that are now finding new life.
The Numbers Behind It
The exact numbers are tricky. But local data says that visitors to the Highlands jumped from 5.1 million in 2012 to 8.4 million in 2023. Tourist spending also went up, from £1.38 billion to £1.68 billion.
VisitScotland knows there are issues but still supports the route. Since 2018, it has put about $27 million into helping small towns. The money went to things like parking areas, toilets, and places for campervans to stop.
The Debate Isn’t Over
Some say the route is changing Highland life too much. A New York Times article asked, “Should You Drive Scotland’s ‘Ultimate Road Trip?’ Locals Say Maybe Not.”
But others believe some change is good — and needed. After all, tourism gives one in every seven people in the area a job.
Not the Best Ending
MacKinnon’s last hotel stop wasn’t great. The sheets were rough. The curtains were thin. The pub downstairs was full of heavy drinkers. But even that told part of the story — a side of the NC500 that tourists don’t always see.
This is the other face of the NC500. A place full of beauty, problems, charm, and change.